6 Reasons Why You Are Not Getting Better At Surfing
Surfing is not just a “simple” skill to master. Surfing requires fine tuning physical movements, gaining and utilising ocean knowledge, being in the right mindset… the list goes on. If you find that you are not improving with your surfing, it can be hard to pin point exactly what it is you are doing wrong. Below are 6 common reasons as to why your surfing may not be getting any better.
You are riding the wrong boards
Plain and simple if you are on a board that does not match your current ability, you are going to make surfing ten times harder than it already is. If you are wanting to do quick swift roundhouses, but you have an 8 ft mal and you are 40 kgs, you are setting yourself up for failure (unless you are a champion rider of big boards.) Wanting to improve your surfing and catch a ton of waves but your board doesn’t float you? Again. You do not have to put yourself through this. If you are not sure what is right for you, talk to your local shaper and express your goals and ideas to them.
You are unfit
Surfing is a physically demanding sport. You cannot work the 9-5, do no exercise, and expect your weekends to be filled with day long sessions. If you want to improve, you need to catch waves. If you can’t catch waves because you are huffing and puffing from just getting out the back, then go figure. Surfing itself is the best way to get surf fit, otherwise you can train surf specific. Don’t know where to start? Begin here.
You don’t know what you look like
We all have perceptions of ourselves. Sometimes we are realistic, other times not. In the water, it is very likely that you do not look like you think you do. Watching yourself surf through footage is a very humbling experience. Footage highlights to us where we are going wrong. It is undeniable evidence. If you want to improve, first things first – you need to be aware of what you are doing. Though they do say ignorance is bliss…I guess that is up to you to decide!
You simply do not go out enough
If you are not surfing consistently it will be very difficult to make traction. You need to be able to build upon your successes, one after the other. If you go out once every two weeks, you will be stuck working through and catching up on the fundamentals. Once you have a base consistency, that is once the “basics” of surfing are mastered and on form, this is when experimentation happens, this is when improvement is made.
You don’t go big
It is a lot easier on the ego to surf safe. To do the manoeuvres that you know you will land, so you can ride the wave to the end. Living at an extremely crowded point break myself I understand. Why would I want to try something new in the chance I fall? It took me 20 minutes to hustle for that wave! There is a time and a place for what I call “going big.” By this I mean being ambitious, trying new things, pushing the limits. If you are having a surf with plenty of catchable waves, use this opportunity to test yourself. You never know where it may take you!
You have a negative mindset
There is the saying “if you think you can or you can’t, you are right.” Though there are some limitations to this quote, it certainly rings some truth. If you have very little confidence it yourself, it will be hard to push yourself to new limits. Do you have to be arrogant? Of course not. Just know that having a little bit of inner faith, can go along way.